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Knock It Off!: A History of Design Piracy in the Us Women's Ready-To-Wear Apparel Industry

Knock It Off!: A History of Design Piracy in the Us Women's Ready-To-Wear Apparel Industry

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  • Sara B Marcketti
  • Texas Tech University Press
  • Paperback
  • 9780896729667
  • 8.9 X 6 X 0.7 inches
  • 0.85 pounds
  • Design > Fashion & Accessories
  • English
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Book Description

The intersection of women's fashion and big business in the US has always been acompelling study across social strata. The ready-to-wear apparel industry thrives on creating a presumably original design that is then interpreted into copies. Called design piracy by some and the knock-off process by most in the industry, copying fashion designs is a firmly embedded business strategy that predates even the advent of women's ready-to-wear in the late nineteenth century. Historically, some industry organizations and individual designers accepted and supported copying as crucial to the transmission of fashion; others strove to prevent the practice, arguing harms ranging from lost profits to the abuse of labor. Threaded through the complicated and fascinating history of US ready-to-wear fashion are more than eighty attempts to legislate for design protection, and countless efforts to stymie piracy through patents, trademarking, or industry self-regulation. The authors analyze legal and apparel industry documents; governmental reports; and their own primary research conducted in museums, archives, and special collections to shed light on arguments both for and against design piracy. A main focus is the Fashion Originators Guild of America (FOGA), one of the most successful industry organizations to attempt design protection. Knock It Off puts into perspective the conflicting interests that have always set fashion design apart from other creative works and continue to make the industry an endlessly perplexing and risky business.
Knock It Off!: A History of Design Piracy in the Us Women's Ready-To-Wear Apparel Industry

Author Bio

Sara Marcketti is the Director for the Center for Excellence in Learning and Teaching (CELT) and Morrill Professor in the Apparel, Events, and Hospitality Management Department.

In her role as director, Marcketti provides leadership for the center in meeting its mission to support, promote, and enhance teaching effectiveness and student learning at Iowa State. She provides individual faculty consultations and facilitates faculty and graduate student workshops on SoTL, documenting effective teaching, peer evaluations, and effective teaching practice.

Previously, Marcketti served as CELT’s Associate Director of Scholarship of Teaching and Learning (SoTL). SoTL efforts administered through CELT include the Miller Faculty Fellowship, SoTL Scholars Program, and Teaching Partners Program.

Marcketti’s teaching and research interests include the scholarship of teaching and learning, apparel industry history, and creative thinking development. Published books include co-authorship of Survey of Historic Costume (6th edition), Textiles (12th edition), and Knock it off: A History of Design Piracy in the U.S. Ready-to-Wear Apparel Industry. Her most recent book explores The Dangers of Fashion: Towards ethical and sustainable solutions.

Marcketti earned an A.B. in art history and an M.S. in textiles, merchandising, and interiors from the University of Georgia and a doctoral degree in apparel, merchandising, and design with a minor in higher education from Iowa State University. Her teaching and research efforts have been recognized through college, university, and national awards including the Outstanding ISU Alumni Award (2018), ITAA Teaching Excellence Award (2018), College of Human Sciences Rossmann Manatt Faculty Development Award (2014), Pacesetter Award from the University of Georgia (2011), and ITAA Rising Star Award (2009). Marcketti currently serves as the President for the Costume Society of America and is a Fellow of the Costume Society of America.

 

Source: Iowa State University 

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